Underbody Coating

UNDERCOATING:

• It's important to protect all aspects of your vehicle from damage, rust, and decay. From the windshield to the tires to the actual body of your car, automobiles need upkeep to prevent them from becoming an undrivable pile of rust.
• All the moving parts work together to form a well-functioning and safe-to-drive whole, and it's easy to forget about the things on your vehicle that you don't see - like the underbelly. That's where car undercoating comes into play.
• No matter the climate, the underbelly of every vehicle needs proper care and protection. Undercoating helps protect your vehicle against rust and corrosion.
• Seals on the underbelly parts have gotten a lot tighter and more effective at keeping out dust and moisture, but there are other factors to consider.
• Poor roads, rocks getting thrown from the tires and denting the metal, and corrosion from road salt in the winter all play a huge part in the damage or decay of a vehicle's underbelly.
• Used vehicles especially will need a little underbelly protection -- while it's already been exposed to contaminants and rust, applying undercoating will prevent further damage.
• All vehicles come with some form of undercoating straight from the factory, with it being the first line of defense between an automobile’s metallic underside and the elements. But these OEM coatings are not always the most durable product and will wear out over time, leaving oil pans, transfer cases, suspension arms, and pretty much every other metal part found underneath a vehicle vulnerable to corrosion and rust.

Purpose of Undercoating:

• To protect against rust & corrosion
• Reduces NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness) levels
• Prevents paint chipping
• Protects vital components

Difference between Rust protection and Undercoating:

• Undercoating and rust protection often go hand-in-hand, but they are two different things. Rust protection generally goes inside your vehicle, while undercoating is used for protection outside of the vehicle, and there are a variety of coatings available. Depending on the level of damage and how much protection you want for your vehicle will determine which type of automotive undercoating you choose.
• Undercoating is a process that involves the application of rubberized sealants, lanolins, or any number of other rust-repelling coatings on corrosion-prone surfaces on the underside of a vehicle. Some common areas that get “rust-proofed” include the undersides of fenders, weld points and seams, fuel tanks, suspension arms, axles, rear differentials, and chassis cradles.
• Rust protection is a manufacturing process that infuses rust-inhibiting chemicals into the materials that make our automobiles. These rust inhibitors are not topical coatings, but more of an engrained countermeasure to the circulation of electrical current, a critical component in the development of rust.

Different types of vehicle undercoating:

1. Spray-on "Rubberized" Undercoating

• The most common method of undercoating a vehicle is via the use of a “rubberized” spray-on product. Utilizing a tar-like substance that has been infused with solvents and protectants, spray-on undercoatings stick to whatever they touch, acting as a barrier against salt, moisture, oxygen, and other foreign substances that may lead to rust and corrosion.
• In addition to your undercarriage, rubberized undercoating is also safe to use on wheel wells and quarter panels, and dries to a soft rubbery finish that prevents further rust, damage, or moisture seeps. The coating can be painted over and, if necessary for bodywork, can be easily removed with an undercoating removal spray.
• Overall, the rubberized coating is generally the best option for protecting your vehicle's undercarriage, as it provides the simplest and best protective measures against rust and moisture.

2. Polyurethane Undercoating

• The other option for undercoating your vehicle is to use a polyurethane-based sealant. This type of vehicle undercoating is a little bit quicker and easier to apply.
• Oftentimes, polyurethane undercoating will come in canisters ready to preload into an application gun. This type of sealant works by seeping into all cracks and seams, displacing salt and moisture, and oozing around rusty areas to bond with and protect the unoxidized metal. It also sands quickly in case you'll need to perform bodywork and can be painted over.
• On the flip side, this type of car undercoating generally requires a little bit more surface prep work before applying -- sanding and applying an etching primer to bare metals before using are generally recommended.

3. Wax or Paraffin based Undercoating

• A paraffin-based undercoating will be the cheapest and quickest option available with which to protect the undercarriage of your vehicle. However, keep in mind that it will wear off quicker than other types of undercoating and will need to be stripped and reapplied at least once every year.
• Wax-based undercoatings never truly harden. During application, they drip or flow into seams and cracks to provide protective properties. They are usually available in a spray gun canister or an aerosol can and offer at least a base protection in moderately humid climates.
• Curing times will vary depending upon air temperature and how heavy of a coating has been applied, so there will likely be some downtime between car rides after this stuff has been sprayed.

4. Asphalt based Undercoating

• For standard vehicles, any of the aforementioned types of undercoating will provide sufficient protection. Asphalt-based undercoating provides a bit of extra durability against rocks, chips, and moisture for large trucks and heavy machinery.
• Asphalt-based undercoating generally contains a little bit of rubberized material that firmly sets up and helps soften noise. Generally sold in five-gallon containers, this type of undercoating also needs more cure time than the other three, and is NOT paintable, making it best to use only for the undercarriage.

5. Dripless Oil Spray

• The final common undercoating option is dripless oil spray. Once allowed to harden on a surface, this wax-like, colorless substance can repel moisture and corrosion for years on end.
• Just note that dripless undercoating oil sprays typically require holes to be drilled into the body of the vehicle at specific points for the product to penetrate unseen areas that are prone to rusting out.

APPLYING UNDERCOATING AT HOME:

Once you've selected the best undercoating for your vehicle, make sure your work area is clean, well-ventilated, and has adequate lighting. Wearing a dust mask and old protective clothing is advised. Make sure it's a nice day with low humidity if you're working outside, and if inside, deep-clean your area to ensure it's free of dust or any other debris that could become trapped in the undercoating.

• As always when it comes to updating your vehicle or using any sort of coating, remove the rust completely FIRST and then proceed. Rust removal is easily achieved by sandblasting or sanding, depending on the area and the extent of the rust.
• Once you've removed the rust and prepped your undercarriage for coating, give it a quick rinse and let it dry to ensure you aren't further trapping any contaminants on your vehicle's underbelly. Using a degreaser to clean the metal first is also recommended.
• Most undercoating is generally applied with a spray gun. A disposable spray gun will work best; once the undercoating hardens, it becomes very difficult to clean the gun even with a lot of thinners. A Schutz disposable spray gun is the best option.
• No matter what type of vehicle undercoating you've selected, two coats will provide the optimum protection. Allow ample dry time between coats.
• Let the undercoating cure completely (usually overnight) before driving your vehicle on the road.

Pros and Cons of applying Undercoating:

Pros:

• The biggest advantage to having an undercoating installed on the underside of an automobile is the peace of mind that comes with knowing that your vehicle is protected from rust and corrosion, at least, to an extent. While there are no guarantees that a rust bubble won’t appear where a rock chip removed some rubberized coating, most vehicles go years without requiring a touch-up.
• Undercoatings add an extra layer of sound-deadening insulation to the underbelly of a vehicle. While it may not be as effective as a dedicated sound-proofing product, and won’t do much when it comes to repelling heat and cold, thickly sprayed undercoatings do reduce road-noise, if but in minimal increments.
• It can be self-applied - Rustproofing works best when you have this service professionally applied to your vehicle. If money is tight, however, and you have some basic car maintenance skills, then you can do the work yourself.

Cons:

1. Talk About Some Seriously Toxic Stuff!

• You should always wear a ventilation mask, protective eyewear, gloves, and a painter’s suit when working with undercoatings.
• Like many chemical-rich products, the average undercoating is a gateway to organ failure, cancer, infertility, and genetic defects.
• A bit of digging revealed that quite a few brands are still unsure as to what this stuff does to the human body over time, with some of the more discerning case studies showing that “…25% of the mixture consists of ingredient(s) of unknown acute toxicity.”

2. Repulsive aroma

• Lanolin has earned the nickname wool grease for a reason. This waxy substance is derived from a naturally occurring secretion commonly found in fluffy animals like sheep.
• Produced within the glands that encapsulate their wool follicles, lanolin provides these cud-chewing critters with a waterproof coat that helps keep them dry and warm in winter.
• On the downside, because lanolin is the porous substance secreted by livestock, it smells sort of like… well… stank-ass sheep glands. This repulsive aroma is even more notable when lanolin is exposed to warmer temperatures.

3. High price of vehicle undercoating

• But perhaps the biggest issue people have with professionally installed automotive undercoatings and rustproofing procedures is how much they cost.
• Sure, the initial shock of having to cough up a few hundred bucks so that a professional can undercoat your vehicle may be shocking, it is nothing compared to the cost of replacing an entire vehicle due to rust damage.
• This is precisely the reason why many people opt to take matters into their own hands and attempt to undercoat their automobiles on their own.